Saturday, 27 February 2010

Ahoy,

At 3am this morning I was woken up and evacuated from my Moorea Campsite, due to the expected Tsunami a result of the dreadfull Chillian earthquake! Staying on the western side of Moorea we were on the wrong side for the Tsunami to be a danger but one can never be too cairefull, I would be a fool to stay and snooze in my flimsy tent.

Already Exhausted by boat dutys, thousands of sea miles and roughing it like never before, campsite evacuation was not exciting but a reluctent move. For almost 7 hours i waited on the islands high ground with 2 Finnish Backpackers. Late morning it was safe to return to the campsite, the panic was over. there was no Tsunami.

Easter island was hit and also i would imagine the Pitcairn islands and the Gambier group too. I am lucky, very lucky. If this had happened just one week ago i could have been a victim.

I have been trying to upload more photos but the internet cafe computors in French Polynesia are slow and poorly equiped. I will do a mass photo upload as soon as possible, but probably not until Rarotonga.

Au revoir

Felix

Wednesday, 24 February 2010

THREE MONTHS ON THE ROAD.....PAPEETE TAHITI

Bonjour,

I am now in Tahiti! I got off the boat in Mangareva after the completion of my last expedition, the second expedition of six expeditions to the Pitcairn island group.

I am just getting used to being off the boat which is odd. It was an amazing experience, like no other but with its stresses that is for sure.

Since i last wrote we sailed to Ducie island via Henderson island. A leg of the expedition that only three out of the five passengers were prepared to continue with. This part of the trip was made much more enjoyable by having Pawl and Sue from Pitcairn as island guides and also as crew members too.

Henderson island was not really suitable to land on, and accidentally there was the capsizing of the tender over the reef. Thankfully know one was hurt and 2 of our passengers made it ashore. Unfortunately I did not make it ashore but Sue me and the other passenger how to reel in fish!

When we arrived at Ducie island the conditions were much calmer. We all made it ashore, which was an incredible privilege. Out of Pitcairn's small population of 53 people only a couple have been to Ducie island so it really is off the beaten track being 300 miles east of Pitcairn and Easter island the next stop a further 700 miles east. The bird life was untouched, unafraid Noddys, Petrels, frigate birds will fly or calmly pause right near you. The Coral too was pristine, amazing snorkeling!

Back on Pitcairn island I had the privilege of spending a last bit of time doing the things i wanted to do. I thanked everyone on Pitcairn for making me feel so at home. Thank you for your hospitality and wonderful food! I am so happy i did manage to achieve something in particular before i left and that's climbing into Fletcher's Cave!

Now i am off the boat i am enjoying things that it is so easy for one to take for granted in the safe haven comfort zone of home. An un-rocked toilet, space to breath and think (you don't get that on a boat) cool (un-tainted) bottled water, little subtle things.

I am contemplating Tahiti iti with Moorea for the next few days, to relax and enjoy the paradise of Polynesia. On Tuesday 2nd March i fly to Rarotonga in the Cook islands and hope to also visit Atiu.

Au revoir,

Felix

Tuesday, 9 February 2010

Wutaway Yourley,

I am back on Pitcairn island!

The Internet was down in Mangareva so that is why my updates have been even more infrequent. Thank you for all your supportive and informative comments.

On Wednesday 27th January after my couple of days on the island the boat had to be moved for the anchorage in Bounty bay was not ideal. The boats continuous rock in the 3-4 meter swell made getting on board from our pathetic outboard dingy a tough task. I fell three times attempting to board, but the fourth time made it on board. Thank you to the islander that gave me a life jacket!

Captain Paul and i took the boat around to the southern side of the island. There the conditions were as flat as a mill pond. I felt sad to be back on board off the island i so wanted to be on. However the boat had to be moved!

On the Thursday the islands long boat O'leary (packed full with half the islands population on board) dropped off the seven passengers and food and some parcels etc...

The voyage back to Mangareva was via Oeno island. Unsafe conditions forced us to abolish the plan of getting ashore, so the sight of the paradise island was just a frustrating out of reach sight for the passengers and crew too.

We arrived in Mangareva morning of Sunday 31st January. Excessive swell and lashing rain made Saturday nights sailing unbearable for some of the passengers. It was not a good look. We were sailing through the tail end of a cyclone with 40 knot winds.

The rain continued even once we were tied up at the wharf on Mangareva. Passengers came and went only to stretch there legs and look round soaked Rikitea. On the Monday Chrissy, Paul's partner and crew member had a fall. She slipped in some unsuitable flip flops and fell backwards head first into the almost dry bed of a stream. Hitting her head on a rock which fractured her skull and as we soon learnt breaking her right arm and badly bruising her shoulder. Paul spent the rest of the day sat with her in Rikiteas small infirmary.

Contention on board rose to an ever high with the passengers. partly due to horrid boat bound weather and suspected Cabin fever. There was discrepancies and upsets off and on unfortunately.
I was tired of the background noise of passenger problems and contention and severely concerned about the trip with only two Crew should Chrissy have to leave which to be honest was going to be the case tomorrow.

On the Tuesday we said goodbye to the passengers who were glad to be going there separate ways and Chrissy who was on her way to Tahiti's hospital. There flight saw the arrival of the five new passengers which i met and helped to settle in. Another cyclone was heading to Mangareva so to prepare for the worst we stripped the boat of sails and wind damage risk equipment. We waited until Friday 5th February off Mangareva anchored in the lagoon. Then we set sail.

We sailed against a head wind to Oeno island wear again getting on shore was an issue. We swam in the perfectly clear waters off the reef. Paul saw a white tip shark. I later saw a Green Turtle! an amazing sight!

At sunrise of Monday 8th February i sighted Pitcairn island 17 miles off on my morning watch. Mid morning once we arrived we unloaded into the island long boat the passengers and there luggage. It was not until Tuesday afternoon that i was able to get a shore, I wanted to get a shore but understood that it was only going to be an option if the conditions allow it. I did not expect to stay a shore but only spend the afternoon or day a shore.

Last night there was a feast at Pitcairn islands fishing club meal gathering held outside the hall and museum. It was lovely to catch up with islanders and tuck into the always delicious island food. Thank you to the people of Pitcairn for last nights evening meal.

I will update in Tahiti or with news and photos.

Hooray,

Felix

Sunday, 7 February 2010

On the way to Pitcairn from Mangareva!
Well stocked with fuel, water and a doctor on board too.