Kia Orana

I am now back from southern Cook island of Atiu. The island is rather backward as regards to communication. Pitcairn island is better assisted with outside world contact than Atiu. Internet was slow if you could find it and at 10$ per 15 minuets a tad expensive. Mum checked her emails and it took 12 minuets to load.

We arrived Monday 15th at mid day. Our 15 seater 'Beach Craft' aeroplane felt like a toy in the sky. The home made flattened rubble airstrip located on the north of the island has a small hut of an airport. A sign welcomes passengers and there is no checking of passports just smiles and welcoming flower garlands thrown round your neck.

Englishman Marshall Humphrey's of Atiu tours and Home stay drove us to his house he shares with his wife Jeanne. There Home stay is one of several options of accommodation on the island and a good choice too, located half a mile from Areoa village. We both went on a tour of the island led by Marshall along with four other guests. The tour was informative and interesting. Marshall has a wealth of knowledge about the islands history and geographic infrastructure. Located 187km north east of Rarotonga Atiu is a Makatea like Henderson island in the Pitcairn island group. Also on the way up rising at 1 cm a year!

Through out the week on Atiu we got to know people on the island quite well. At times there was only us as guests on the island. We enjoyed the empty beaches full of the most magnificent shells, got to know the different tracks round the island and took a tour around Annnatakitaki cave home of the Kopeka bird.

We met an islander Ngtaromiki and his wife Ralea who is from Penrhyn in the northern Cook islands. Islander Ngtaromiki who has eleven children all of whom have left little Atiu for Australia and New Zealand left with his wife for only 2 years long ago but missed his home, Taro fields and pigs too much and returned. He does not work just lives off the land and Fish from the lagoon, caught with home made rods and hooks. He taught me and mum how to make a basket from Coconut leaves and in return i gave him a most treasured gift - brand new fishing line and hooks i brought with me from the UK. It is the custom in outer islands of the Pacific to give gifts to people that show there kindness to you, a sign of your appreciation.

We went to a few Tumunu bush beer gatherings wear island men sit round a container of potent home brew and share manly story's and chew sugar cane. Alcohol was frowned upon by Christian missionary's as was Cannibalism but somehow the popular social event of drinking alcoholic home brew continued on the island (in the bush). A great Cultural experience but i would not go every day including Sunday afternoons like so many islanders do.

We visited the small congregation on the island located in Teenui village one of five villages all on the raised centre of the island. Only 7 publishers and out numbering children! One of the 2 ministerial servants is the Papa of most of the congregation. They were very happy to be visited as few drop by lonely Atiu. Next week they have an Elder flying in to take the sacred Memorial for them.

The island is home to a number of different birds such as the Flycatcher, Kingfisher, fruit Dove, Rimatara lorakeet and Kopeka. Also the huge Coconut crab that can climb trees and husk Coconuts.

When we left we were sent of in the aeroplane as the only passengers. Ngtaromiki and his wife gave us gifts of Frangipani garlands and Mother of Pearl from Penrhyn. It was a sad departure. we both felt it as we sawed away from Atiu the real taste of the Cook islands hospitable and heart warming culture.

Mei tiki La nui nui

Felix