Kia Orana
I am now back from southern Cook island of Atiu. The island is rather backward as regards to communication. Pitcairn island is better assisted with outside world contact than Atiu. Internet was slow if you could find it and at 10$ per 15 minuets a tad expensive. Mum checked her emails and it took 12 minuets to load.
We arrived Monday 15th at mid day. Our 15 seater 'Beach Craft' aeroplane felt like a toy in the sky. The home made flattened rubble airstrip located on the north of the island has a small hut of an airport. A sign welcomes passengers and there is no checking of passports just smiles and welcoming flower garlands thrown round your neck.
Englishman Marshall Humphrey's of Atiu tours and Home stay drove us to his house he shares with his wife Jeanne. There Home stay is one of several options of accommodation on the island and a good choice too, located half a mile from Areoa village. We both went on a tour of the island led by Marshall along with four other guests. The tour was informative and interesting. Marshall has a wealth of knowledge about the islands history and geographic infrastructure. Located 187km north east of Rarotonga Atiu is a Makatea like Henderson island in the Pitcairn island group. Also on the way up rising at 1 cm a year!
Through out the week on Atiu we got to know people on the island quite well. At times there was only us as guests on the island. We enjoyed the empty beaches full of the most magnificent shells, got to know the different tracks round the island and took a tour around Annnatakitaki cave home of the Kopeka bird.
We met an islander Ngtaromiki and his wife Ralea who is from Penrhyn in the northern Cook islands. Islander Ngtaromiki who has eleven children all of whom have left little Atiu for Australia and New Zealand left with his wife for only 2 years long ago but missed his home, Taro fields and pigs too much and returned. He does not work just lives off the land and Fish from the lagoon, caught with home made rods and hooks. He taught me and mum how to make a basket from Coconut leaves and in return i gave him a most treasured gift - brand new fishing line and hooks i brought with me from the UK. It is the custom in outer islands of the Pacific to give gifts to people that show there kindness to you, a sign of your appreciation.
We went to a few Tumunu bush beer gatherings wear island men sit round a container of potent home brew and share manly story's and chew sugar cane. Alcohol was frowned upon by Christian missionary's as was Cannibalism but somehow the popular social event of drinking alcoholic home brew continued on the island (in the bush). A great Cultural experience but i would not go every day including Sunday afternoons like so many islanders do.
We visited the small congregation on the island located in Teenui village one of five villages all on the raised centre of the island. Only 7 publishers and out numbering children! One of the 2 ministerial servants is the Papa of most of the congregation. They were very happy to be visited as few drop by lonely Atiu. Next week they have an Elder flying in to take the sacred Memorial for them.
The island is home to a number of different birds such as the Flycatcher, Kingfisher, fruit Dove, Rimatara lorakeet and Kopeka. Also the huge Coconut crab that can climb trees and husk Coconuts.
When we left we were sent of in the aeroplane as the only passengers. Ngtaromiki and his wife gave us gifts of Frangipani garlands and Mother of Pearl from Penrhyn. It was a sad departure. we both felt it as we sawed away from Atiu the real taste of the Cook islands hospitable and heart warming culture.
Mei tiki La nui nui
Felix
Tuesday, 23 March 2010
Friday, 12 March 2010
Kia Orana,
The sky is blue, the sand is a white coral Crush and the lagoon is like walking through a gold fish bowl, full of tropical fish.
I had some time to rest, sleeping in a bit longer etc... and got to know some people at my hostel. Mums plane got in Monday morning. I stood directly behind the airstrip as the huge 767 landed about 100 yards in front of me. The kind of thing me and Russ would do in California! You can almost touch the plane and the jet blast is huge! Loads of locals turn up for the event night or day.
Its mums first taste of tropical paradise, The fruit - Paw Paw, Coco nuts, Mango's and Melons are fantastic! Parented by New Zealand, the Cook islands enjoy convenience goods that the western world do, making pretty much everything expensive (due to high import taxes) except local fruit and vegetables. Land is inherited and not sold but leased for no longer than 60 years. The basic necessities of life are provided by dependency on Taro, a common staple in the diet of Polynesians. I went to an Umu a traditional Maori feast of Chicken, Palu Sami and Taro cooked under banana leaves in the ground on hot rocks. I did not eat for a day after!
We fly to Atiu on Monday. Six meter raised coral cliffs surround the coast (known as a Makatea) and located 187 km north east of Rarotonga, the island of Birds, Maori Warriors, Caves and Coffee. It will be an interesting island to visit. A small population compared to any wear in the UK - only 700 people. As tourism has not taken hold on Atiu i have read that visitors are treated as Guests not tourists.
Will upload more photos soon...
Cheers,
Felix
The sky is blue, the sand is a white coral Crush and the lagoon is like walking through a gold fish bowl, full of tropical fish.
I had some time to rest, sleeping in a bit longer etc... and got to know some people at my hostel. Mums plane got in Monday morning. I stood directly behind the airstrip as the huge 767 landed about 100 yards in front of me. The kind of thing me and Russ would do in California! You can almost touch the plane and the jet blast is huge! Loads of locals turn up for the event night or day.
Its mums first taste of tropical paradise, The fruit - Paw Paw, Coco nuts, Mango's and Melons are fantastic! Parented by New Zealand, the Cook islands enjoy convenience goods that the western world do, making pretty much everything expensive (due to high import taxes) except local fruit and vegetables. Land is inherited and not sold but leased for no longer than 60 years. The basic necessities of life are provided by dependency on Taro, a common staple in the diet of Polynesians. I went to an Umu a traditional Maori feast of Chicken, Palu Sami and Taro cooked under banana leaves in the ground on hot rocks. I did not eat for a day after!
We fly to Atiu on Monday. Six meter raised coral cliffs surround the coast (known as a Makatea) and located 187 km north east of Rarotonga, the island of Birds, Maori Warriors, Caves and Coffee. It will be an interesting island to visit. A small population compared to any wear in the UK - only 700 people. As tourism has not taken hold on Atiu i have read that visitors are treated as Guests not tourists.
Will upload more photos soon...
Cheers,
Felix
Tuesday, 2 March 2010
Kia Orana,
I am in the Cook islands!
Yesterday I arrived at the beautiful island of Rarotonga, after 6 days in the wet and expensive Windward islands of French Polynesia. Maybe it was a mistake to spend a few days on Tahiti and Morrea in a tent. It poured with rain almost every day and night. As you might expect i was a tad to tall to spread out in the (two man) tent and it was also to humid for it to be comfortable. One of lives lessons i suppose - Camping is last option in the tropics!
On Monday morning i prepared to depart the water logged campsite. As i disassembled the tent in the pouring rain one of the structural rods snapped and wind lashed my tent profusely. At that point frustrated and exhausted i decided to leave the tent behind. Not only was it now broken but clad with mud and cut grass a bio-security problem with airport Customs. Not worth the hassle. I slept Monday night on the concrete floor of Tahiti's Faaa airport. I woke up exhausted and dishevelled, checked in then headed for the flight departure lounge.
I had a pleasant flight to Rarotonga one of nine passengers on a 70 seater aeroplane. Waste really. But there were too many meals made so there were seconds. The Cook island welcome was friendly and welcoming. Rarotonga's airport baggage conveyor belt was broken so it was go and get it yourself. The weather welcoming too, hot and sunny with a cool breeze.
I have settled into my hostel - Tiera Village hostel. I would recommend it actually. I hitch hiked home from the small town centre yesterday afternoon, the first truck stopped! what service.
Cheers (kneed to learn goodbye in Maori)
Felix
I am in the Cook islands!
Yesterday I arrived at the beautiful island of Rarotonga, after 6 days in the wet and expensive Windward islands of French Polynesia. Maybe it was a mistake to spend a few days on Tahiti and Morrea in a tent. It poured with rain almost every day and night. As you might expect i was a tad to tall to spread out in the (two man) tent and it was also to humid for it to be comfortable. One of lives lessons i suppose - Camping is last option in the tropics!
On Monday morning i prepared to depart the water logged campsite. As i disassembled the tent in the pouring rain one of the structural rods snapped and wind lashed my tent profusely. At that point frustrated and exhausted i decided to leave the tent behind. Not only was it now broken but clad with mud and cut grass a bio-security problem with airport Customs. Not worth the hassle. I slept Monday night on the concrete floor of Tahiti's Faaa airport. I woke up exhausted and dishevelled, checked in then headed for the flight departure lounge.
I had a pleasant flight to Rarotonga one of nine passengers on a 70 seater aeroplane. Waste really. But there were too many meals made so there were seconds. The Cook island welcome was friendly and welcoming. Rarotonga's airport baggage conveyor belt was broken so it was go and get it yourself. The weather welcoming too, hot and sunny with a cool breeze.
I have settled into my hostel - Tiera Village hostel. I would recommend it actually. I hitch hiked home from the small town centre yesterday afternoon, the first truck stopped! what service.
Cheers (kneed to learn goodbye in Maori)
Felix
Saturday, 27 February 2010
Ahoy,
At 3am this morning I was woken up and evacuated from my Moorea Campsite, due to the expected Tsunami a result of the dreadfull Chillian earthquake! Staying on the western side of Moorea we were on the wrong side for the Tsunami to be a danger but one can never be too cairefull, I would be a fool to stay and snooze in my flimsy tent.
Already Exhausted by boat dutys, thousands of sea miles and roughing it like never before, campsite evacuation was not exciting but a reluctent move. For almost 7 hours i waited on the islands high ground with 2 Finnish Backpackers. Late morning it was safe to return to the campsite, the panic was over. there was no Tsunami.
Easter island was hit and also i would imagine the Pitcairn islands and the Gambier group too. I am lucky, very lucky. If this had happened just one week ago i could have been a victim.
I have been trying to upload more photos but the internet cafe computors in French Polynesia are slow and poorly equiped. I will do a mass photo upload as soon as possible, but probably not until Rarotonga.
Au revoir
Felix
At 3am this morning I was woken up and evacuated from my Moorea Campsite, due to the expected Tsunami a result of the dreadfull Chillian earthquake! Staying on the western side of Moorea we were on the wrong side for the Tsunami to be a danger but one can never be too cairefull, I would be a fool to stay and snooze in my flimsy tent.
Already Exhausted by boat dutys, thousands of sea miles and roughing it like never before, campsite evacuation was not exciting but a reluctent move. For almost 7 hours i waited on the islands high ground with 2 Finnish Backpackers. Late morning it was safe to return to the campsite, the panic was over. there was no Tsunami.
Easter island was hit and also i would imagine the Pitcairn islands and the Gambier group too. I am lucky, very lucky. If this had happened just one week ago i could have been a victim.
I have been trying to upload more photos but the internet cafe computors in French Polynesia are slow and poorly equiped. I will do a mass photo upload as soon as possible, but probably not until Rarotonga.
Au revoir
Felix
Wednesday, 24 February 2010
THREE MONTHS ON THE ROAD.....PAPEETE TAHITI
Bonjour,
I am now in Tahiti! I got off the boat in Mangareva after the completion of my last expedition, the second expedition of six expeditions to the Pitcairn island group.
I am just getting used to being off the boat which is odd. It was an amazing experience, like no other but with its stresses that is for sure.
Since i last wrote we sailed to Ducie island via Henderson island. A leg of the expedition that only three out of the five passengers were prepared to continue with. This part of the trip was made much more enjoyable by having Pawl and Sue from Pitcairn as island guides and also as crew members too.
Henderson island was not really suitable to land on, and accidentally there was the capsizing of the tender over the reef. Thankfully know one was hurt and 2 of our passengers made it ashore. Unfortunately I did not make it ashore but Sue me and the other passenger how to reel in fish!
When we arrived at Ducie island the conditions were much calmer. We all made it ashore, which was an incredible privilege. Out of Pitcairn's small population of 53 people only a couple have been to Ducie island so it really is off the beaten track being 300 miles east of Pitcairn and Easter island the next stop a further 700 miles east. The bird life was untouched, unafraid Noddys, Petrels, frigate birds will fly or calmly pause right near you. The Coral too was pristine, amazing snorkeling!
Back on Pitcairn island I had the privilege of spending a last bit of time doing the things i wanted to do. I thanked everyone on Pitcairn for making me feel so at home. Thank you for your hospitality and wonderful food! I am so happy i did manage to achieve something in particular before i left and that's climbing into Fletcher's Cave!
Now i am off the boat i am enjoying things that it is so easy for one to take for granted in the safe haven comfort zone of home. An un-rocked toilet, space to breath and think (you don't get that on a boat) cool (un-tainted) bottled water, little subtle things.
I am contemplating Tahiti iti with Moorea for the next few days, to relax and enjoy the paradise of Polynesia. On Tuesday 2nd March i fly to Rarotonga in the Cook islands and hope to also visit Atiu.
Au revoir,
Felix
Bonjour,
I am now in Tahiti! I got off the boat in Mangareva after the completion of my last expedition, the second expedition of six expeditions to the Pitcairn island group.
I am just getting used to being off the boat which is odd. It was an amazing experience, like no other but with its stresses that is for sure.
Since i last wrote we sailed to Ducie island via Henderson island. A leg of the expedition that only three out of the five passengers were prepared to continue with. This part of the trip was made much more enjoyable by having Pawl and Sue from Pitcairn as island guides and also as crew members too.
Henderson island was not really suitable to land on, and accidentally there was the capsizing of the tender over the reef. Thankfully know one was hurt and 2 of our passengers made it ashore. Unfortunately I did not make it ashore but Sue me and the other passenger how to reel in fish!
When we arrived at Ducie island the conditions were much calmer. We all made it ashore, which was an incredible privilege. Out of Pitcairn's small population of 53 people only a couple have been to Ducie island so it really is off the beaten track being 300 miles east of Pitcairn and Easter island the next stop a further 700 miles east. The bird life was untouched, unafraid Noddys, Petrels, frigate birds will fly or calmly pause right near you. The Coral too was pristine, amazing snorkeling!
Back on Pitcairn island I had the privilege of spending a last bit of time doing the things i wanted to do. I thanked everyone on Pitcairn for making me feel so at home. Thank you for your hospitality and wonderful food! I am so happy i did manage to achieve something in particular before i left and that's climbing into Fletcher's Cave!
Now i am off the boat i am enjoying things that it is so easy for one to take for granted in the safe haven comfort zone of home. An un-rocked toilet, space to breath and think (you don't get that on a boat) cool (un-tainted) bottled water, little subtle things.
I am contemplating Tahiti iti with Moorea for the next few days, to relax and enjoy the paradise of Polynesia. On Tuesday 2nd March i fly to Rarotonga in the Cook islands and hope to also visit Atiu.
Au revoir,
Felix
Tuesday, 9 February 2010
Wutaway Yourley,
I am back on Pitcairn island!
The Internet was down in Mangareva so that is why my updates have been even more infrequent. Thank you for all your supportive and informative comments.
On Wednesday 27th January after my couple of days on the island the boat had to be moved for the anchorage in Bounty bay was not ideal. The boats continuous rock in the 3-4 meter swell made getting on board from our pathetic outboard dingy a tough task. I fell three times attempting to board, but the fourth time made it on board. Thank you to the islander that gave me a life jacket!
Captain Paul and i took the boat around to the southern side of the island. There the conditions were as flat as a mill pond. I felt sad to be back on board off the island i so wanted to be on. However the boat had to be moved!
On the Thursday the islands long boat O'leary (packed full with half the islands population on board) dropped off the seven passengers and food and some parcels etc...
The voyage back to Mangareva was via Oeno island. Unsafe conditions forced us to abolish the plan of getting ashore, so the sight of the paradise island was just a frustrating out of reach sight for the passengers and crew too.
We arrived in Mangareva morning of Sunday 31st January. Excessive swell and lashing rain made Saturday nights sailing unbearable for some of the passengers. It was not a good look. We were sailing through the tail end of a cyclone with 40 knot winds.
The rain continued even once we were tied up at the wharf on Mangareva. Passengers came and went only to stretch there legs and look round soaked Rikitea. On the Monday Chrissy, Paul's partner and crew member had a fall. She slipped in some unsuitable flip flops and fell backwards head first into the almost dry bed of a stream. Hitting her head on a rock which fractured her skull and as we soon learnt breaking her right arm and badly bruising her shoulder. Paul spent the rest of the day sat with her in Rikiteas small infirmary.
Contention on board rose to an ever high with the passengers. partly due to horrid boat bound weather and suspected Cabin fever. There was discrepancies and upsets off and on unfortunately.
I was tired of the background noise of passenger problems and contention and severely concerned about the trip with only two Crew should Chrissy have to leave which to be honest was going to be the case tomorrow.
On the Tuesday we said goodbye to the passengers who were glad to be going there separate ways and Chrissy who was on her way to Tahiti's hospital. There flight saw the arrival of the five new passengers which i met and helped to settle in. Another cyclone was heading to Mangareva so to prepare for the worst we stripped the boat of sails and wind damage risk equipment. We waited until Friday 5th February off Mangareva anchored in the lagoon. Then we set sail.
We sailed against a head wind to Oeno island wear again getting on shore was an issue. We swam in the perfectly clear waters off the reef. Paul saw a white tip shark. I later saw a Green Turtle! an amazing sight!
At sunrise of Monday 8th February i sighted Pitcairn island 17 miles off on my morning watch. Mid morning once we arrived we unloaded into the island long boat the passengers and there luggage. It was not until Tuesday afternoon that i was able to get a shore, I wanted to get a shore but understood that it was only going to be an option if the conditions allow it. I did not expect to stay a shore but only spend the afternoon or day a shore.
Last night there was a feast at Pitcairn islands fishing club meal gathering held outside the hall and museum. It was lovely to catch up with islanders and tuck into the always delicious island food. Thank you to the people of Pitcairn for last nights evening meal.
I will update in Tahiti or with news and photos.
Hooray,
Felix
I am back on Pitcairn island!
The Internet was down in Mangareva so that is why my updates have been even more infrequent. Thank you for all your supportive and informative comments.
On Wednesday 27th January after my couple of days on the island the boat had to be moved for the anchorage in Bounty bay was not ideal. The boats continuous rock in the 3-4 meter swell made getting on board from our pathetic outboard dingy a tough task. I fell three times attempting to board, but the fourth time made it on board. Thank you to the islander that gave me a life jacket!
Captain Paul and i took the boat around to the southern side of the island. There the conditions were as flat as a mill pond. I felt sad to be back on board off the island i so wanted to be on. However the boat had to be moved!
On the Thursday the islands long boat O'leary (packed full with half the islands population on board) dropped off the seven passengers and food and some parcels etc...
The voyage back to Mangareva was via Oeno island. Unsafe conditions forced us to abolish the plan of getting ashore, so the sight of the paradise island was just a frustrating out of reach sight for the passengers and crew too.
We arrived in Mangareva morning of Sunday 31st January. Excessive swell and lashing rain made Saturday nights sailing unbearable for some of the passengers. It was not a good look. We were sailing through the tail end of a cyclone with 40 knot winds.
The rain continued even once we were tied up at the wharf on Mangareva. Passengers came and went only to stretch there legs and look round soaked Rikitea. On the Monday Chrissy, Paul's partner and crew member had a fall. She slipped in some unsuitable flip flops and fell backwards head first into the almost dry bed of a stream. Hitting her head on a rock which fractured her skull and as we soon learnt breaking her right arm and badly bruising her shoulder. Paul spent the rest of the day sat with her in Rikiteas small infirmary.
Contention on board rose to an ever high with the passengers. partly due to horrid boat bound weather and suspected Cabin fever. There was discrepancies and upsets off and on unfortunately.
I was tired of the background noise of passenger problems and contention and severely concerned about the trip with only two Crew should Chrissy have to leave which to be honest was going to be the case tomorrow.
On the Tuesday we said goodbye to the passengers who were glad to be going there separate ways and Chrissy who was on her way to Tahiti's hospital. There flight saw the arrival of the five new passengers which i met and helped to settle in. Another cyclone was heading to Mangareva so to prepare for the worst we stripped the boat of sails and wind damage risk equipment. We waited until Friday 5th February off Mangareva anchored in the lagoon. Then we set sail.
We sailed against a head wind to Oeno island wear again getting on shore was an issue. We swam in the perfectly clear waters off the reef. Paul saw a white tip shark. I later saw a Green Turtle! an amazing sight!
At sunrise of Monday 8th February i sighted Pitcairn island 17 miles off on my morning watch. Mid morning once we arrived we unloaded into the island long boat the passengers and there luggage. It was not until Tuesday afternoon that i was able to get a shore, I wanted to get a shore but understood that it was only going to be an option if the conditions allow it. I did not expect to stay a shore but only spend the afternoon or day a shore.
Last night there was a feast at Pitcairn islands fishing club meal gathering held outside the hall and museum. It was lovely to catch up with islanders and tuck into the always delicious island food. Thank you to the people of Pitcairn for last nights evening meal.
I will update in Tahiti or with news and photos.
Hooray,
Felix
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